I was on WHYY's Radio Times show this morning, talking privatization with PLCB chairman PJ Stapleton. He was laying out what I'm calling the PLCB False Dawn Initiative, their alternative to privatization (wow, what great ideas! wow, what coincidental timing! Wow, where was this stuff 20 years ago?!); then Marty and her crew brought me on to lay it waste.
Okay, maybe "lay it waste" is exaggerating a bit, but I did give him a run for it. Details are here; enjoy.
Monday, March 28, 2011
The PLCB's False Dawn Initiative
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Lew Bryson
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Labels: Lew Bryson, PLCB blog, radio
Greg Hall doesn't keep us waiting
Check out this interview with Goose Island brewmaster (and hellaciously good guy) Greg Hall. There's a man who's grabbing the brass ring, and good for him. Greg delivered a ton of great beer, put up with a lot of crap, and kept smiling. I'll miss talking to him for work; hope to keep talking to him for pleasure.
Thanks to STAG regular Steven Herberger for the link!
Posted by
Lew Bryson
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15:07
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Labels: acquisitions, Chicago, good news, Goose Island
Goose Island to be Acquired by AB InBev
Just got this. Goose Island has agreed to be acquired by AB InBev. Important points: John Hall stays on as CEO (no word of Greg Hall's status - update: it's been announced that Greg will be stepping down as brewmaster); this is a 100% acquisition; the two Goose Island brewpubs are NOT part of the deal; ABIB will invest in a brewery expansion immediately; and wholesalers will not be affected. Read on:
So...if you're a diehard craft beer type, and you love Goose Island...do you keep drinking it? Or do you immediately stop, and start bitching about how it doesn't taste the same anymore? Or do you just...wait and see and try to stay impartial?
Posted by
Lew Bryson
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09:54
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Labels: acquisitions, Chicago, Goose Island, InBud, macrocrafts
Family Fun in old Quebec
I'll admit, I left you hanging after talking about the times Thomas and I had in Montreal. Let's get caught up.
The next morning I woke up about 8:15 (very comfortable bed, quiet room), puttered about a bit, and checked my email -- holy crap, I had a response on my request for a tour at Unibroue! How soon could I be there? Quick think: raining, major metro area at rush hour (but going opposite to traffic), get Thomas up and packed...10 AM! We quickly threw things together, we'd already paid for the room; grabbed a croissant and a banana from the breakfast area, stuffed everything in the Jetta (thankful for that great parking spot!), and took off for Chambly. Gray, wet weather, and grunting-slow traffic, but the GPS took us directly to the brewery, and shortly we were in the capable hands of master brewer Jerry Vietz (portrait of whom you see pouring us samples of Raftman).
I'll give you the short version, since I'll be selling this story elsewhere: they are obsessed with quality and consistency. We washed our shoes, there were a number of areas where we could only look in through windows, no admittance (micro lab, open fermenters). They're doing a lot of lager brewing for Sleeman (Sleeman bought Unibroue, and was shortly thereafter bought by Sapporo), but Jerry intimated that the plan was to heavily ramp up sales and production of Unibroue, to the point where the whole plant would be dedicated to the refermented ales of Unibroue.
And we drank. The Raftman was delish: much more smoke in the nose than in the palate (Jerry also gave me a fresh-bottled Raftman: keep it warm, he warned me, and so we took it in the hotel every night). We tried the Blonde as well, and it was wonderful, flowery, spicy, lively. He loaded us down with samples: Ephemere, Blonde, Eau Benite, Maudite, a big three year old magnum of Maudite, a special brewery-only Christmas beer, and a sixpack of 1837, a Quebec-release strong ale that I'm looking forward to trying. Great time, great tour: Thomas was impressed and interested on a scientific level (as was I: Vietz is juggling several major projects with skill and aplomb). And...we took off for Quebec City.
Onward! We rolled on down the St. Lawrence (largely frozen, and awesomely large), and came to Quebec City. The outer, modern city reminded me oddly of Pittsburgh. We stayed on the edge of the old city in a very nice Best Western (hello, Priceline), with a school group full of tarted up little hotties...yeah, whatever, get out of the way, we're going sightseeing!
We headed up the hill to the Citadelle, hoping to get some view of the city, but it was misty, rainy, and...we were too late in the day. On top of that...it's an active Canadian Defence site! Who knew? We were braced at the door, told there was no admittance. Well...okay! We walked back to the Jetta, and drove into the walled part of the old city. We got up to the point, and there was a Red Bull Crashed Ice track! They were running a race that weekend...which would have been fun, but as it was, it just kind of screwed up the parking. We drove around some more, and finally stuck the Jetta in an underground lot, and went walking. We went in a medieval store (I got Cathy silver and amber earrings, Thomas looked at swords), a clothing store, didn't go in the Hello Kitty store (well, it was closed, what are you going to do), and I finally said, look, we have to get a drink!
And this is where we wound up, at the St. Alexandre Pub, where they had an astounding selection of bottled beer -- huge Belgian selection -- and good taps too. I got a St. Ambroise stout (predictable, but it was so good fresh), Thomas took my advice and got a Guinness/Smithwick's black and tan. He'd never had, and that was a good intro. He liked it. We were starting to get peckish, though, and didn't necessarily want to eat here. I pulled out the Frommer's, and we saw that one of their recommended places was a short walk from there: Ristorante il Teatro.
We had a good time, and an excellent repast: a Tuscan (meaty!) antipasto, a funghi risotto for me, and smoked duck ravioli for him. Delish, and really not a bad price. Afterwards...well, we walked back to the car (along which walk I took the picture of Thomas to the left here, hunched against the damp cold, and looking downright European), drove back to the hotel and stashed the car, and fell asleep in quite short order. We'd walked quite a bit, and it had been a short night.
The next morning, Thomas was still dozey, so I got up, showered, got dressed, and walked about two blocks to a bakery, La Boîte à Pain. The girl behind the counter spoke no English, so we smiled, pointed, and nodded: I picked out two loaves to take home, a spinach and feta roll, and a chocolate croissant (for Thomas). And I left my wallet at the room! Crap. I finally got it across to her, and promised to be back. Ran to the hotel, got the wallet, ran back, and collected my breadstuffs. And that spinach thang was good!
Anyway, we left town and drove on through flat open (wet!) country, but the day eventually cleared up, although it was still pretty damned flat! I was thinking about how to spend my Canadian money, when I saw a sign for a Fromagerie. Cool! I got off the Autoroute, and THEN the sign admitted that the cheese place was 14 klicks north. Oh well, we weren't in a rush. See that picture with the Jetta? That's what it was, miles and miles of flat muddy fields, covered in snow. Impressive. We got some cheese curds and a big block of excellent 3 year old cheddar, and cross-countried to the border on two lane roads. Fun drive, and there were these big hills that reared up out of the flat, stark and sudden; all rather enjoyable, in a scenic sense. The border crossing was quite intrusive; apparently the guy was convinced that we were coming across at this tiny post because we had something to hide. All we were doing was driving down through the Champlain islands, but no big: we had nothing to hide. He finally opened the trunk and saw the beer, and things got downright jovial after that.
We rolled on down into Burlington and had lunch at the Vermont Pub & Brewery...which is about where I left you in the post from Burlington. That was about it for the trip. We drove home on Friday, and that was that. Good trip, good time with Thomas, and some great food and beer.
Thursday, March 24, 2011
Massively Increased Beer Choice: Good, Bad, or Ugly?
Way back, around 1996/7, craft beer growth in the U.S. flatlined. It had long been predicted -- which seems weird and self-fulfilling, in retrospect -- as "the coming shakeout," and it arrived with force. When it did...we started looking for why. (Funny thing is, not many people talked about why before there was a shakeout (or why everyone referred to it as a 'shakeout') but they seemed certain there would be one...and there was! Amazing, what we do to ourselves.)
There were a multiplicity of factors -- under-capitalization, lack of brewing skill, market manipulation, industry in-fighting among them -- but one that got a lot of play was the thought that consumers were flummoxed by too much choice, and were standing in front of craft beer shelves in a fibrillating logic loop, like some Star Trek-era computer that had just received some verbal bullshitsku from Kirk and Spock (Kirk, out-thinking a computer, now there's quality plotting)...and then turning, zombie-like, to go back to Good Old Bud Light.
At least, I thought so. Then Barry Schwartz came out with his book The Paradox of Choice: why more is less in 2004, and that seemed to ice it. It was in a book, you nerds; more choice paralyzes consumers! End of speculation.
I like books, but...this is something that's always bugged me, and I just saw two pieces about it (thanks to Our Girl Tara Nurin at CitySearch.com Philly for that!), so here goes. The first piece, from February, is a short one from the always curious Harry Schuhmacher at Beer Business Daily. Harry notes that he'd heard Jim Koch speak about the phenomenon in today's market, about
"the great proliferation of choices in the beer aisle today, giving Americans the most choices and a wider variety of beer in any time in history. But he also warned that there is a law of diminishing returns, as too many choices can actually paralyze the consumer into buying less, or even buying none, because no matter what he/she chooses, the consumer is left with an unsatisfied feeling that they may have not chosen the best beer."Classic Schwartz, right out of Paradox: choice paralysis comes from the 'fear' of not making the best choice, and Harry quotes Schwartz to back it up...on the subject of picking mutual funds. And Harry follows with examples of people paralyzed at the craft beer selection...and also inspired by it, and ends with "What do you think?"
Mostly, I thought, picking a good beer is not as hard or as crucial as picking the best mutual fund. I mean, what's the downside? You're out $15, as opposed to maybe $50,000 if you pick the wrong fund? Screw it, let's double down and get two sixpacks!
Then I read Jeff Linkous's Beer-Stained Letter blog post about it. After he speculates a bit, and notes the great 2010 numbers from the Brewers Association...he talks to Barry Schwartz, who, it turns out, "by and large gives the beer industry a pass from his premise that a plethora of choices turns consumers off..." Ha!
The reason beer gets an exemption: choosing a brew – sixpack or single bottle – from the wall of eye-popping labels, and picking one you're ultimately unhappy with, is an error that's easily [sic] to correct, easy to move beyond given the lower price than a car, computer or clothes. Plus, with those latter items there's the expectation of keeping them for a while.Yeah, well...you look at my garage, fridge, and basement, you'll see I apparently have that expectation about beer, too! Anyway, Schwartz adds that the difficulty of making a choice may come out in ways other than walking away:
the hyper array of beer choices could end up favoring well-known or familiar brands (or beers that have the most engaging packaging or labels for that matter). Opting for the familiar is a way of dealing with a problem that seemingly can't be solved, steering away from a random choice. "Nothing will bring brand loyalty back faster than a proliferation of options," he says.So...where's that leave us 14 years ago? I think Schwartz is eminently pragmatic about the price of the product making the "paradox" less pressing, and I believe that puts an unstoppable hole in the "overwhelmed by options" theory of The Shakeout. I put my money on the number of sub-quality beers in the day (packaging problems, largely), the angry quarreling among craft brewers and a couple of vicious smacks from the big brewers that had an outsized effect, and a rush into the market by people with more money than brewing passion.
Today's threat of choice paralysis is, I believe, greatly overstated by Jim Koch, and I can't help feeling that he knows that: after all, Boston Beer is cranking out a lot of new beers lately, hey? We're seeing more and more beers every year -- more beers and more breweries and more kinds of beers -- and yet the sales just keep going up and up along with it.
Hmmm...quality of beer is WAY up, there's next to no in-fighting (we have to make up squabbles about extreme vs. session beer just to keep from getting bored, apparently), and the rush of "stupid money" into the craft industry that I was concerned about four years ago never really materialized. I'm thinking there are much better ways to explain The Shakeout, and much more important things -- malt prices, tax increases, Four Loko lapover effects, price of capital for expansion, wholesaler consolidation -- to worry about...than too much choice. Give us all the choice you got, brewers; bring it on!
Posted by
Lew Bryson
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11:00
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Labels: choosing a beer, craft brewing history, expansion, growth, Jim Koch, money, Portfolio
Wednesday, March 23, 2011
ABC taking a New Road to Collegeville
Uncle Jack is reporting on the Beer Yard site (here) that Appalachian Brewing Company hopes to be opening their third satellite operation this May at the former site of the New Road brewpub in Collegeville (that would be the brewpub where Brian O'Reilly began his local career). According to what Artie Tafoya told Jack, the plan will be like that in the Camp Hill ABC brewpub: small (5.5 bbl.) system to do specialties, main beers coming down from the massive mothership in Harrisburg, total of about 15 beers available.
Ah....karma. It will be good to have that building cleansed of the dopey crap that took place (outside the brewhouse!) there under the New Road regime. Kick ass, ABC.
Posted by
Lew Bryson
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16:02
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Labels: Appalachian Brewing, openings, Uncle Jack
A Yuengling brewery...in Harlem?
“one bbl. of old stout in bottles this has been brewed three years ago and considered the Best. Should you find it to [sic] strong[,] add water to suit your taste, and it will be a delicious stimulant. Hope it will do you good.”
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Lew Bryson
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15:48
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Tuesday, March 22, 2011
"What Dad really wants is whiskey"
There's nothing wrong with buying your dad bourbon -- okay, unless he's a drunk, or a Mormon, or something -- it's downright manly. It's something I've been giving as gifts for a while now. I'm stocking up, actually: the dopey PLCB has Four Roses Yellow Label on clearance for $11.99 a bottle (and there's plenty left). I've been buying Christmas presents in March...because, you know...what Dad really wants...
For the rugged adventurer dad: Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon, a whiskey for men who blaze their own trail. Herds of ancient buffalo carved a pathway that was followed by America’s first pioneers and explorers. This bourbon is named for those buffalo and the rugged pioneers who followed them westward. Acclaimed as “one of the world’s great whiskies” by world renowned whiskey reviewer Jim Murray, Buffalo Trace is a small-batch bourbon aged 8-11 years with a vanilla aroma, rich taste and dry finish. Priced at just $25, this San Francisco World Spirits Competition double gold medal winner will please dad’s palate without putting a dent in your wallet.
Posted by
Lew Bryson
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15:34
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Labels: Bourbon, Buffalo Trace, Father's Day, Van Winkle
Sunday, March 20, 2011
Magic Hat Demo
Demo is Magic Hat's latest IPA, a dark one (don't know what the music/LP theme's about; they've got a new lager out too: Vinyl), and I liked it. Nice and malty, without the huskiness some of the dark IPAs have, and solid hop bitterness and aroma. 6%, sweet enough to go down easy. Nice job. Might look for more of this.
Posted by
Lew Bryson
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09:03
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Labels: black IPA, Magic Hat, tasting notes
Thursday, March 17, 2011
Hello, Burlington!
I'm in Burlington, VT for the first time in about 14 years, and this is STILL a great beer town. Funny, it's still real New England-car, too: saw a Saab 900 and a Volvo 240. Anyway, the boy and I did Vermont Pub & Brewery for lunch -- Bombay Grab IPA -- nice, not crazy -- Dogbiter Bitter -- too strong, but good -- and Cream Ale -- good iteration -- then walked down to the lake, had some laughs with the gulls. We were looking for Irish music, but on St. Pat's Day that's a fool's errand; Ri Ra was flowing out into College Street. So I went to Three Needs -- Thomas got carded out and went window-shopping while I had one beer: Session Sour, which is good: maybe a bit over session, maybe not too sour, but it's a good drink. Whew. What a week!
Posted by
Lew Bryson
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17:32
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Happy St. Patrick's Day with a surprise in a green can
I figured this was going to be booze-o in a can-a-rama, to be honest; some slightly higher ABV suds that didn't really taste all that bocky. I would like to publicly apologize to Mark and the gang at Gansett for that, because I should have known better after the porter and Fest.
Here's the story. This is a blonde bock, well-made, beautifully clean and balanced, and the kind of beer that will make a lager-lover out of you if you have but an ounce of sense (not to get too far off the topic here, but if you're lucky enough to find some Shiner Fröst...that sweet little rendition of a Dortmunder will do it too; excellent beer, one of their best, IMO). I took a can to a Malt Advocate staff party recently, and we were all real impressed; best beer we had that day. So get out there and find some, if you're lucky enough to live in the Northeast! (Sadly, although we get 'Gansett in PA, we didn't get any Bock. Better get some next year, and we want draft, too!)
Posted by
Lew Bryson
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09:40
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Labels: bock, can, Narragansett, seasonals
Wednesday, March 16, 2011
Family Fun in Montreal
My son Thomas is home from Boston University on Spring Break. He and I decided to go to Quebec to get away. I'll be honest; I'm not sure how that happened, but I'm all for it.
We drove up yesterday: stopped at Brown's Brewing in Troy (formerly the Troy Brewpub, same owners), where I enjoyed my usual -- Porter! -- and Thomas had...iced tea. Quebec's only hours away, fella! We had a beautiful run up through the Adirondacks, no worries, and scooted into Plattsburgh to view the deep blue waters of Champlain (and fill up on relatively cheap diesel before entering The Dominion of Canada). The border crossing was, for a change, uneventful, and we drove north across the plains to Montreal.
We checked into Le Cartier B-and-B, a neat little place, and got the restaurant lecture for our host, Richard. The man eats out 365 days a year, he said, so we listened. Which is how we wound up going to Au Petit Extra, and had a great meal, and a great experience for the young man. Pretty Quebecois waitresses who all looked like they could be Cathy's cousins: dark hair, light complexion, slightly elfin features. We got the prix fixe dinner, which came with 6-8 choices for the first and second courses, five dessert choices/or a cheese plate, and plentiful delicious slices of baguette. The menu was all in French -- no kiddy English version -- but we managed to figure out what we wanted between Thomas's 1.5 semesters and my smattering of eating French.
| We've had some glass-holding lessons since... |
This morning I got some work done, as did he, and then took a cab to the Brasserie McAuslan, where master brewer Dave Brophy -- one of the original five employees -- showed me an almost fanatical devotion to quality and consistency. No wonder I've never had a disappointing McAuslan Oatmeal Stout. Fascinating comment: they contract brew Moosehead for Quebec, and Dave said that they did an extensive diacetyl rest for the lager. Then he referred to the McAuslan beers -- done in open fermentation tanks with Ringwood yeast -- and said that, of course, they have a different character; i.e., diacetyl is expected there. Well, there you are.
| Thomas contemplates the menu at Saint-Bock; brewery is in the far background |
After that, we slipped down into "The Underground City." Not really an attraction, much as it sounds it. Came up and headed up St. Laurent. There are lots of hipster clothing stores there, I told Thomas (and I can get to Schwartz's, I told myself). And you know, it worked out. We walked all the way up, he got to shop, and then we went to Schwartz's and got smoked meat sammiches and Cott's black cherry soda, a weirdly wonderful combo. Then we walked over to St. Denis, stopped in a Converse/Doc Marten store, and then had a great time in a Quebec artisanal store, talking bear teeth and gypsy swing with the owner while the "annual" anti-police protest marched loudly by outside.
And...that's when I realized I'd left my debit card in the ATM that morning. So we walked down to L'amère à boire to regroup and get info to cancel the card. I had the current Projet Elephant beer, a 3.6% Tmavé dark lager, wonderfully session. Thomas had a pilsner. I got the info I needed, canceled the card...and Thomas realized he'd left a shirt he'd bought at Schwartz's. So back up St. Laurent, and whattayaknow, they had it for him! Bravo, Schwartz's!
Dinnertime. Okay, beer time. Reservoir is practically around the corner, so we went, and I got a big glass of Noire, the dry stout that I swear is the best thing they make. We also had grilled cheese: raclette and sweated onions on grilled baguette. Nummy.
We were beat. Yes, beer geekerie: no Dieu du Ciel. I've been; it's great, but it's a long way off, and to be honest, I'd rather have spent much of the day drinking the Elephant beer, or even going to Benelux. Or maybe I'm just ornery. Anyway, we split a poutine, one more Montreal thing for the boy to experience, and called it a day. And now I'm going to bed. Good night!
Tuesday, March 8, 2011
Iron Hill North Wales brings the bitter
A reminder to you Philly area folks: Iron Hill North Wales will be hosting an IPA event this Saturday, from 1-5, a pay-as-you-go sampling of Iron Hill hop monsters pitted against the bitterest offerings from local brewers. Check out the list for this Bitter Rivalry:
On Tap From the HOME TEAM:English Pale Ale (IHB Newark)
Gerardus Maximus (IHB West Chester)
English IPA (IHB Media)
Hopfection IPA (IHB Wilmington)
Ramrod (IHB North Wales)
Hoppopotamus (IHB Phoenixville)
Swagger (IHB Lancaster)
Black IPA (IHB Maple Shade)
On Tap From the AWAY TEAM:
75 Minute IPA On Cask (Dogfish Head)
IPA (Yards)
California Dreamin' (Manayunk Brewing Co.)
Flower Power (Ithaca Brewing Co.)
Prussia's Pride (Rock Bottom KOP)
Summit IPA (Stewart's)
Rt. 113 (Sly Fox)
HopFish (Flying Fish)
Should be fun.
Posted by
Lew Bryson
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10:31
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Sunday, March 6, 2011
Pineville Tavern on Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives!
Another lost week...
But I'm back, with cool news: Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives visited Memphis Taproom, we all know about that, and it was very cool...but they also stopped in a Bucks County beloved, the Pineville Tavern, just up the road from my home, and a place where I've dropped anchor for a good jar of Guinness on occasion (because the beer pickin's are admittedly fairly slim, but the food's excellent). Here's the scoop: the show's tomorrow night!
Pineville Tavern (est. 1989) will be featured on The Food Network’s, Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives on March 7th at 9PM (re-running on March 14th). Executive chef (and 2nd generation owner), Drew Abruzzese will be showing host Guy Fieri what goes into making some of the most popular items on the menu – like the P.V.T. Snapper Soup (or as Guy refers to it on the episode – “Snapping Turtle Soup”). Drew will also revel the secret recipe for the Abruzzese family’s 4th generation meat ravioli and marinara sauce.
Drew has worked side-by-side with some of the most well-respected chefs in the area – Danny Meyer (New York Restaurateur, Union Square Hospitality), Jeffrey Chodorow (New York Restaurateur, owner of China Grill Management), and Matt Levin (owner of local Philly restaurant, Adsum).
Posted by
Lew Bryson
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16:20
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Labels: Bucks County, food



