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4 year old; The Six; the new 7 year old |
I've always been a fan of Heaven Hill because of the value of their whiskeys.
Evan Williams, in the familiar black label, the Bonded, and Single Barrel bottlings, is the benchmark for bourbon value.
I will admit: I didn't get the value prospect when I first started seriously drinking bourbon. I
perversely wanted to
spend more money on my whiskey. When I found
Elijah Craig 12 year old for $14 (20 years ago!), I changed my mind.
So one of my favorite bottles was the
Heaven Hill Bottled in Bond 6 Years Old in the white label. I liked the way that bottle poured down the long neck, I liked the
smack in the face of its unapologetic big corn/big oak character, and I sure did like that $14 (or less) price tag. That and Wild Turkey 101 were the bourbons that led me to realize that
I preferred bourbons on the
low side of 12 years old.
I felt
betrayed when Heaven Hill
pulled the Bonded Six from the market last year. That's a little harsh;
it makes sense. Why put such
great whiskey in a bottle for
$14 ($21 for a handle!), when whiskeys that
aren't even as good are selling for
four times that? It simply no longer made sense for Heaven Hill, even with their
long and loyal practice of supporting markets that had supported them (in this case, the bottom shelf bandits, I guess). I get it.
But now we get
Heaven Hill Bottled-in-Bond 7 year old, and it's
$40 a bottle. Where's that rise in price come from? An
extra year of age, and I guess the Bottled-in-Bond
hyphens aren't free, and that is a very
snazzy new bottle and label. But
you know me Al: how's it taste?
I just went through the process of
sorting all my bourbons and ryes, so I knew I had
not only the
Bonded Six and the new bottling, but a 'pint' bottle of
Old Heaven Hill Bonded, a 4 year old that I believe is still out there.
Let's taste them.
Old Heaven Hill Bottled in Bond — No age statement, but I'm guessing this probably isn't
much over 4 years old. Sweet corn on the nose, some hot oaky alcohol, and some
pleasantly delicate nuts and fruit pastilles there as well.
Simple but well-built on the tongue: everything the nose
promises, with a bit of
creamy sweetness as well, and maybe a hint of green corn. Decent finish.
Better than I remember, to be honest.
Heaven Hill Bottled in Bond 6 Years Old — Given the
age of this bottle (I found it
buried in the back of my liquor cabinet), it was
likely laid down by
Parker and Craig Beam. In Parker's honor, I'll note that I smell
corn, and oak! I also smell lots of spicy candy,
coffee cake streusel, and sweet
stollen dough. Big entry:
hot corn pudding, Red Hots,
peppermint oil, and a
beginning of the oak that will build through the finish. The
heat is a
rock-em sock-em kind of thing, a punch, but a
gloved punch that's not going to
knock your palate out. Instead, it brings you back
for more, like the soothing
pummeling of a massage. I want to
finish the sample, but I'll have to
come back to it.
Heaven Hill 7 Year Old Bottled In Bond — Trying hard to
clear my head of expectations... The nose has
more candy -- orange nougat, butter mints -- but also
lots of cornmeal and dusty seed corn, along with
whiskey-wet barrel oak. Quite
different from the
Bonded Six on the palate:
smoother, more cornmeal and dried corn, the
Red Hots are lighter and not as sweet. That's it: it's a
lighter, almost brittle sweetness over a richer corn and oak underlayment, almost like a
crème brûlée kind of structure (not flavor; structure). The end of the palate and into the finish is more
austere, and shorter.
When I
go back to the Bonded Six after this, it seems a
lot sweeter, until that
finish, which
piles on the oak. That's where I think the
Bonded Six has the advantage; the
finish on the 7 Year Old is
shorter, and less...
magnificent. The 7 has a
more interesting nose, it has more balanced flavor that we'll call
'separate but equal,' but that Bonded Six
finish is something I'm going to
miss.
Is the Heaven Hill 7 Year Old Bonded
worth $40? At 100° and 7 years old, baby,
most definitely! Especially when I
look around at what else is
going for $40 these days. Hell, get a
bottle of this and a bottle of
New Riff Bonded for about the
same price, and you'll have
$80 well-spent; catch the right store pricing, and you'll have
enough left over for lemons, superfine sugar, and chips for a
whiskey sour party you won't soon forget. This steps
lightly and brightly along the
edge of
young bonded power and
mature whiskey sophistication, a young boxer who just got his
first silk suit.
Are the days of
punch-in-the-face bourbon gone? There are
always 4 year olds that will
slap you: Beam White, Jack Black. There are
8 to 12 year olds that will
body-slam you: Russell's Reserve, Knob Creek. But when I go looking for the solid
haymaker to the chops that was the Bonded Six...I'm
not sure it's going to be out there. Maybe I
need to get out Jimmy's Remedy:
Turkey 101. I'll let you know about that.